Otates jratent- v



'(ModeL) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1-.

P. E. SCHMIDT.

BUTTON'HOLE SEWINGMAGHINE. No. 273,318. Patented Mar. 6,1883.

u. pz'renypnuwuin n w. Walhington o. a

(ModeL) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2. .P, E. SCHMIDT,

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE. 110.273.5318. Patented Mar.6,1'883.

N. PETERS Fimtwlilbogww. Wa hingian, D C- NirE- STATES PATENT Br on.

FRIEDRICH E. SCHMIDT, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.

. SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 273,318, dated March6, 1883,

Application filed August 17, 1880. (ModeL) To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRIEDRICH ERNST SCHMIDT, of Brooklyn, in the countyof Kings and State of New York, have invented a new and ImprovedButton-Hole Sewing-Machine, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in machinery for stitching the.edges of buttonholes, and'is shown to be applied and applicable to suchmachines as are described in Letters Patent No. 86,617, but is alsoapplicable to allother button-hole sewing-machines which have aneedle-thread and shuttle-thread and a lower gimp or inlay thread whichis bound in by the needle-thread.

The object of my present invention is to sew onto the edge of abutton-hole a further fourth thread, which is laid in and held fast bythe needle-thread, and which serves to improve the appearance of theside of the button-hole opposite to'that to which the shuttle-thread andthegimp-thread are applied. In gentlemens coats and other garments thetwo sides of the fabric having a button-hole are frequently exposed toview, and there is an objection to the present mode of stitchingbutton-holes that one of the sides only has a perfect finish and theother not, and that one of the sides has proper strong binding, and theother not. By my invention a complete finish of both sides ofthebutton-hole is insured, and less danger of destroying the stitch byordinary wear incurred.

1n the accompanying drawings I have endeavored to illustrate so muchonly of a sewing-machine of the well-known kind--in this case of themachine known as the Humphrey mach1neas will enable any one skilled inthe art to apply and understand my improvement, which really is in thenature of an attachment to a sewing-machine.

Figure 1 in the drawings represents a side elevation of the Humphreysewing-machine having my improvement. of the same. Figs. 3 and 4: andFigs. 6 to 14, inclusive, are detail views, showing parts of theimprovement; and Fig. 5 is a diagram showing the stitch produced by thisimprovement.

Fig. 2 is a top view.

the lower inlay or gimp thread. One of these cams, E (see Fig. 6,)hasaprojection, b, (shown in Figs. 1 and 6,) for striking at properintervals a lever, E, which connects with anotherlever, F, (clearlyshown .in Fig. 1,) both said levers being pivoted to the frame-work ofthe machine. The lever F joins, below its pivot 61, with aconnecting-rod, G, and above its said pivot with another connecting-rod,H. The rod G connects with a crank, c, that projects from a verticaltubular spindle, I, which is parallel and near to the lower portion ofthe needle-bar, and the rod H connects with a .crank, f, that projectsfrom a vertical tube, J,

I and J, as indicated in Figs. 3' and 4-, and on a larger scale in Fig.14.

From the side of the rod L, at or near its lower end, projects throughhorizontal slots of the tubes I and J a horizontal arm, g, which has ahole in its-end for the thread h (that is to be laid onto the fabric bythe needle-thread) to pass through. a From the lower part of the tube Iprojects a forked book, i, and from the lower part of the tube Jprojects a similar hook, j, as clearly shown in Figs. 3 and 9. The bookj is on a horizontal plane just below that of the book 1'.

When the machine operates, the lever E is vibrated on its pivot,vibrating therefore also the lever F, causing said lever to oscillatethe tubes I and J, so as to make the hooks t' andj alternately overlap,as in Fig. 4, and bringing them apart, as in Figs. 3 and 11.

The'diagram, Fig. 7, illustrates the position of the cranks c andfat thetime the hooks t'j are in the position shown in Fig. 3, and the diagram,Fig. 8, illustrates the position of said cranks at the time the hooksare in the position shown in Fig. 4.

The thread h, which is to be laid on by the needle-thread a, is takenfrom a spool, M, and passed through suitable guides, 11 m, thencethrough the upper extension, is, of the lever F, thence back to theguide m, and thence through a loop, a, at the upper part of theneedle-bar, and thence down through the hole in the arm 9. A suitabletension device, N, is preferably introduced between the guides l and m,as shown in Fig. 2. After the needle descends with its thread a thehooks M are spread apart, as in Fig. 8. After the needle has raised thethread a in ascending, the hooks ij are brought together, so as tooverlap. The hook t, carrying in its fork the thread h, now pulls itpast the upright needle-thread a, as shown in Fig.

4. The iork of the hook j, folding closely un-' der the hook i, bendsthe thread It beneath t, thus taking 011' the thread It sufficient forthe loop which is to be produced by the said thread h. In the positionshown in Fig. 4 the thread h, held taut by the hooks e'j, bears againstthe outer side of the thread a, and bends it inward, so as to crowd itnearer to the rod L, and holds it thus until the needle descends again;but the path of the needle is outside of the line h, as indicated by thepoint as in Fig. 4, and in this path the needle subsequently descends.Thus the thread a is looped over the taut thread it, and stitches itfast to the fabric, because the part of the thread to which had beenpulled up is on the inner side and the part carried down by the needleon the outer die-thread, and thus by the continuous operation of theparts in manner described the threads a h appearon the surface of thefabric, (which is moved by a suitable feed,) substantially as indicatedin Fig. 5, in which figure the dark thread a is the needle-thread, andthe lighter thread h the upper finishing thread. At the time the hooks'ij are apart the arm of the lever Fis thrown back, as indicated by fulllines in Fig. 1, so as to hold the thread It properly taut; but when thehooks come together, as in Fig. 4, the lever F is swung into theposition shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1., so as to give all necessaryslack and enable the hooks to draw the thread It in the mannerdescribed. Afterward, upon the descent of the needle, the superfluousslack is taken up again by the backward movement of the arm is of thelever F.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is- 1. In asewing-machine having a reciprocating needle-bar, the combination of theover lapping-hooks tj and stationary perforated arm 9, with mechanismfor vibrating said hooks, substantially as described.

2. The combination of the lever F and rods G H, with the tubes 1 J,hooks t'j, and threadguide 9, substantially as and for the purposespecified.

3. The lever F, having the projecting threadholding part It, incombination with the rods G H, spindles or tubes I J, hooks ij,thread-guide g, and with the reciprocating needle-bar, substantially asdescribed.

4. In a machine for stitching button-holes, the combination of theneedle-bar and needle and fixed thread-guide g, with a pair ofoscillating hooks, ij, and with means for supplying said books with aseparate thread, h, to be laid on by the needle-thread, substantially asspecified.

FRIEDRICH ERNST SCHMIDT.

Witnesses:

JAMES TURK, SAML. R. BE'rTs.

